Materials. 'Real' leather vs PU vs suede?

[WalkTall]

When shopping online, it's sometimes omitted as to what the shoes/boots are made of - that usually means either synthetic or PU.

PU meaning (as far as I know) polyurethane coating usually over 'split' leather. Synthetic can mean many things including PU, but usually a plastic of some form.

So to get to specifics, what are your (the experts) experiences with PU leather boots and shoes? I prefer 'real leather' but that is not an option for what otherwise seem to be good footwear.

[Puffer]

I'm not sure that 'PU' implies any leather base, as distinct from a wholly-synthetic material.   The construction you identify is usually (or should be) described as 'coated leather' or similar.

Like you, I prefer real leather for footwear (specifically the uppers) and have misgivings about many 'synthetic' products.   Especially the type where a plastic coating is applied to some form of textile base and tends to crack-off quite quickly (e.g. when a boot shaft is folded or creased).   Often, synthetics are very obvious from the lingering smell!

So many shoes and boots these days (especially women's) have a synthetic upper, regardless of price, and it can be quite hard to find affordable leather.   One type that does have merit, however, is 'faux suede', which can look very convincing and, whilst not necessarily hard-wearing, may require less maintenance than true (leather) suede.

There appears to be a potential trap when a shoe upper is described as 'patent'.   True 'patent leather' is indeed leather, but most 'patent' footwear these days seems to be PU - looks good and is easy to make, but not 'leather'!

[FastFreddy2]

On 11/24/2018 at 9:14 AM, Puffer said:

I'm not sure that 'PU' implies any leather base, as distinct from a wholly-synthetic material.   The construction you identify is usually (or should be) described as 'coated leather' or similar.

Like you, I prefer real leather for footwear (specifically the uppers) and have misgivings about many 'synthetic' products.   Especially the type where a plastic coating is applied to some form of textile base and tends to crack-off quite quickly (e.g. when a boot shaft is folded or creased).   Often, synthetics are very obvious from the lingering smell!

So many shoes and boots these days (especially women's) have a synthetic upper, regardless of price, and it can be quite hard to find affordable leather.   One type that does have merit, however, is 'faux suede', which can look very convincing and, whilst not necessarily hard-wearing, may require less maintenance than true (leather) suede.

There appears to be a potential trap when a shoe upper is described as 'patent'.   True 'patent leather' is indeed leather, but most 'patent' footwear these days seems to be PU - looks good and is easy to make, but not 'leather'!

I'd say that appraisal, was 100% correct.

Here in the UK it's fairly straight forward in differentiating because shoes sold here have to be declared with their material contents. It doesn't often say PU, but will often say synthetic. Obviously, anything synthetic, isn't leather.

Some sellers manage to find sources for leather shoes that might come in under UK£100, but these are now few and far between. Worse, it's not unusual these days, for synthetic leather shoes and boots to be well over UK£100. As the Chinese and Vietnamese manufacturing groups take over the worlds shoe manufacturing, smaller 'artisan' manufacturers lose more and more of their customer base, making their products more and more expensive to produce as they increasingly lose economies of scale. 

I would suggest whether you buy leather or synthetic/PU will depend on your intent. Most people buying shoes (women) these days don't expect the style they buy to be wearable for more than (say) two years. As my shoe repairer says, shoes made these days are "rubbish" and can't even be stored for any length of time. (I found a pair of unworn wedges owned by Mrs Freddy last week, the heels in pieces because the plastic had broken down.) The repairer says to me, buy them, wear them, throw them. Conversely, a more expensive "classical" style in leather, one that is neither in vogue or out of it, spend every penny you are comfortable with spending. Had I realised 30 years ago, "consumerism" and globalism would speed up the decline of the boot and shoe industry in the UK the way it has (and elsewhere thinking about it), I might have been more active in the learning skills that may already be lost to us. 

Somewhere I have a photo study of an 'old school' repair shop where the partners had the skills to make shoes from scratch. I remember vividly, one of the chaps I photographed telling me he was going to make a pair of shoes for his son as a present. Handmade shoes have a lifetime of 30 years or the rest of the owners life, whichever is sooner. As I write, I wonder if the son of the shoe maker, might want to see a photo of his father repairing shoes. I'm sure the son no longer has the benefit of his father in his life, unless his father is close to 100. I maybe should do something about that.     

 

 

[Puffer]

6 hours ago, FastFreddy2 said:

...

Here in the UK it's fairly straight forward in differentiating because shoes sold here have to be declared with their material contents. It doesn't often say PU, but will often say synthetic. Obviously, anything synthetic, isn't leather.

Some sellers manage to find sources for leather shoes that might come in under UK£100, but these are now few and far between. Worse, it's not unusual these days, for synthetic leather shoes and boots to be well over UK£100. As the Chinese and Vietnamese manufacturing groups take over the worlds shoe manufacturing, smaller 'artisan' manufacturers lose more and more of their customer base, making their products more and more expensive to produce as they increasingly lose economies of scale. 

...

It is a worrying thought that sensibly-priced 'real leather' shoes are increasingly hard to find, especially (it seems) for women.   I'm not sure why a low-cut court or strappy sandal, which doesn't use a great deal of leather, should be so expensive - but I'm guessing that it is the ease of manufacture in synthetic material, rather than the cost of the upper, that governs the issue.

One apparently happy exception I have come across (and I doubt that it is unique) seems to be own-brand footwear from ASOS.   Having seen two pairs of India-made women's boots recently - one in genuine suede, the other in genuine leather - I was impressed by the quality and sturdiness of construction as well as by the style and finish.   And the full price of both was less than £60 - not trivial but certainly cheaper than many synthetic boots, and others in leather of inferior quality.   (Even better that these boots are currently discounted by about 50% - a bargain for any man (or woman) which they fit.   Alas, I'm not one!)

[FastFreddy2]

3 hours ago, Puffer said:

One apparently happy exception I have come across (and I doubt that it is unique) seems to be own-brand footwear from ASOS.  

I was tempted to mention them too, but thought better of it. Just in case I started a stampede.  

[Puffer]

2 hours ago, FastFreddy2 said:

I was tempted to mention them too, but thought better of it. Just in case I started a stampede.  

What?   In those heels? 

[Shyheels]

I would always rather spend the extra money to have real leather or genuine, proper Nubuck suede. 

[Puffer]

2 hours ago, Shyheels said:

I would always rather spend the extra money to have real leather or genuine, proper Nubuck suede. 

Nubuk is not quite the same as suede, although they can look similar (with 'new' suede usually lacking the slight shine of Nubuk and having a slightly rougher finish).   

According to one source: 'There is not much visible difference between the two. Suede leather has been sanded on the inner layer of the skin, while Nubuck is sanded on the outer or exterior skin of the animal, since the outside layer of a skin is tougher Nubuck tends to be more durable.'

I go along with that; suede is certainly more susceptible to scuffing and probably less water-resistant.

Edited January 7, 2019 by Puffer

[Shyheels]

A lot of suede is split very thin. The Nubuck suede on my OTK boots, with I am wearing as I write, is extremely thick and luxurious.