Puffer

I can't say that I entirely agree about the advantages of travelling by car (at least into London) and I guess I am a similar distance from central London as is Freddy. In my experience, going in by car at any time other than mid-evening or on a Sunday will not only be slow and fraught with traffic delays but also likely to be less economic than the train - especially if only the driver is carried. Quite apart from the possibility of the congestion charge and the probability of absurd costs of parking, the actual running cost of any car is not just the marginal one of the fuel consumed. Whatever all-in mileage rate one choses - and I would suggest that 30p is minimal (whilst the Government's Fixed Profit Car Rate is 45p, and the RAC rates rather more) - I doubt it will be less than the cost of a train from almost anywhere within 50 miles of London. And the Travelcard is still worth buying if more than one or two trips (bus, underground or train) are needed after initial arrival - with the potential for a one-third discount if a Network Card or other instrument is held. In my case, the distance to Charing Cross is a tad under 40 miles, so a return journey would cost (at 30p/mile) £24.00, without parking etc. An off-peak return by train costs £13.60 or £17.60 (depending on timing) and an off-peak Travelcard £21.30. I go to London infreqently now and, unless accompanied or with lots to carry or travelling at a suitably quiet time, would normally take the train - and (as I have an Old Codger's bus pass) use the bus in central London unless making longer cross-town journeys. But, in truth a matter of choice and convenience.

I don't think you would be any good in the Mafia, Freddy: making an offer no-one can accept! As you say, unlikely that anyone could join you at such short notice, unless perchance already in the smoke. A local friend works away in an upmarket watering hole he tells me is called 'St. Evenage' (sounds a bit French, I opine). Would that be the place to which you refer, hh4evr1?

I've just remembered, as the nights are about to draw in, another occasional drink that is welcoming on a cold evening, perhaps after returning from an outside foray (e.g. frightening bystanders by being seen abroad in heels). I refer to drinking chocolate (ideally made with a little evaporated milk) to which a slug of some peppermint-type liqueur has been added. (Crème de menthe is ideal, but anything cheapo and minty will do.) If you like After Seven MInts (I can't wait until 20.00), you will know and appreciate the resultant taste.

I will skirt round the alleged Americanisms, Freddy. I have no problems with your 'gotten' (an old English word which remains valid) and can overlook 'advise' (noun), for example. And, if you disliked my use of 'thru', I merely claim it as a convenient abbreviation, regardless of its origin. Boss White used to be perfectly acceptable on potable water joints (as did lead/tin solder) and I don't get excited by seeing either still in existence, although lead-free solder and harmless jointing compounds are now the norm for such purposes. The Fernox LS-X is fine but several (usually cheaper) equivalents are just as good, but I haven't yet tried the stuff from TS. I'm not aware that plumbers don't like them; you and I do, for the same good reason that they work! As to compression torque, the main problem if overdone is that the tube can be distorted and that can start a leak; half a turn beyond hand-tight should be enough, assuming that (i) fitting, pipe and olive are not damaged/distorted; (ii) a little compound is smeared around the olive at least. I think I misled you about the descaling crystals; it is the colour that is 'ochre' (almost yellow). The compound is essentially sulphamic acid, relatively non-toxic but not to be trifled with. It turns most brass fairly pink, probably because it attacks the zinc rather than the copper. Citric acid is altogether milder but does the job reasonably well, if more slowly.

I too am a light drinker. Apart from disliking inebriation and having a reduced tolerance to alcohol (probably following hepatitis some 40 years ago), I simply don't like the taste of many drinks, especially spirits such as whisky! I do like semi-sweet vermouth (ideally Cinzano Bianco with lemonade, but Dubonnet is OK too) but cannot stomach Campari - although it is good for cleaning paint brushes, or drains! I occasionally drink white-rum-and-cola and some fruity liqueurs. But my daily tipple, if I have one at all, is likely to be a cider (particularly pear), a stout or porter (especially the newish Guinness Dublin Porter), or a lager (with curry or oriental food). I will drink wine with a meal but not much as a purely social drink. I have never liked gin and tonic (far too bitter) but am tempted to try the sloe gin you mention. My intolerance of alcohol does not encourage social drinking as I can rarely keep up with others and, to be frank, I have better things to do with my pocket money than buy them (or even me) excess booze. I don't really like pubs for this reason; drinking at home is more comfortable and certainly cheaper. Some years ago, on a canal holiday with a group of friends (including children), it was quite common for us to stop at a canalside pub - rather too frequently in fact. On one occasion, the pub garden (the usual venue, because of the kids) was too crowded with noisy yokels so, drinks bought inside, we all repaired to the boat and sat on it to consume them. What a waste of money (especially for the kids' soft drinks) - we had our own booze on board and got absolutely nothing extra by paying pub prices (except for the bad language emanating from its garden patrons).

Some good neat progress the, Freddy, albeit with some physical problems to overcome. I agree with you about the stupid way that sink-top taps are supposed to be mounted; the lack of a locating gizmo and the frequently useless horseshoe washer (which distorts readily) does nobody any favours. I don't think your old compression joints were assembled using 'Plumbers' Mate' (at least I hope not - it is not for pressure pipes). I suspect it was Boss White or similar compond which sets (more or less) and can indeed be tricky to remove. These days, I prefer a silicone pipe/leak sealing compound out of a tube; there are several makes - the cheapest should be fine but I have yet to try this one: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p40236?table=no I invariably re-use old compression fittings (usually requiring new olives) but soak them in descaling fluid for a few hours which cleans off most of the gunk and softens any compound, with a wire brush doing the rest. My descaler is ochre crystals made by Fernox and bought in a bulk tub some years ago. I make up a strong solution in an old poly tub and keep it handy, immersing parts, inc copper fittings and pipe ends, as they get removed. It remains sufficiently potent for months. Just to demonstrate that I don't just waffle on about theory, here is a pic of the (incomplete) combi set-up at my seaside bolthole (a first-floor flat above a shop), taken mid-2013. The flue is not yet in place; it leaves the top of the boiler (ProCombi Exclusive 30) thru an elbow and runs horizontally (via a 45 degree elbow) through the side wall. The gas connections and overflow have yet to be made and the condensate outlet will be connected to a pump to go on the small shelf at left - this will discharge via plastic tube underfloor to the soil pipe about 3m away to the right. As the lobby in which the boiler is situated is about 5" lower than the main part of the flat, it was very convenient to take all the pipework (CH and HW) into the void under the main floor by cutting into the dividing wall just above the lobby floor. Likewise, the CW supply (grey vert pipe, left of boiler) and gas come together into the lobby via a downward slanting hole from the loft area on the other side of the wall - I forgot to sleeve the gas pipe but it didn't matter as the hole is quite large and well clear of both pipes. The electrolytic scale remover had to be canted as shown to get its length between CW feed and boiler connections. The brass object on the CH Return is a Spirovent dirt collector (filter). The horizontal white plastic pipe at left just under the window is taking CW to an outside tap; there is a double check valve and a stopcock inside the lobby (out of sight). I later moved this pipe down to a more useful and less conspicuous level behind the radiator. The airing cupboard in which the boiler now resides was built around it later, with shelves to the right and the 18" door hung directly in front of the boiler from the frame seen projecting from the wall. When the boiler and gas supply were tested and commissioned (by a qualified and obliging friend), it was the hottest day of July 2013! We sweltered for a couple of hours with rads all belting out heat - but all was well and I got my certificate (and Crackerjack pencil). (Ignore the date on the pic below; camera not set correctly.)

Just as I thought I could take it easy (apart from fixing a minor leak under younger son's sink) and confine myself to further armchair pontification on Freddy's current 'buggers muddle', my good friend with some buy-to-lets has asked for my hands-on input to install (with his help) a complete gas CH system at one of his flats. Probably 5 days' work starting around 2 Nov. I am happy enough to oblige - I owe him about 10 days after all he did to help me with my seaside flat refurb - but a rest would have been nice! (As he owns 'flats', I won't be working there in 'heels'.) As to bicycles, I well remember apologising to my elder son (then aged about 10 and a keen footballer) that I had no interest or ability whatsoever in sport, so could not help him thus. He smiled at me and said, touchingly, 'No - but you can mend my bike, Dad!' Our respective roles have remained much the same, some 25 years on.

I understand the comments about heel-wearing on a bike. I was thinking of cowboy boots or similar; stilettos would certainly carry a risk of damage - to shoes or to bike.

I haven't had any PMs on this board to date. And I don't recall the Bluewater suggestion, although it sounds a good one, and I certainly wouldn't regard you as a stalker/perv/freeloader or even a pernickety plumber!. If there is a nucleus of like-minded members wishing to meet, it seems that nearly everyone is south of the Thames (mostly well south) so I guess you must save up for another Dartford rip-off, Freddy. I'm not sure where a good compromise venue might be. Brighton has its attractions (apart from parking!) but I would be reluctant as I have too many family there. Would Bluewater be too far north for the coastal dwellers?

Aah - all is now apparent, mon petit ami! I was confused before and thought 'cuissard(e)s' were a breakfast pastry, the excessive consumption of which would certainly round everything out. Obviously, I was thinking of croissants or some such comestible.

I don't think you have directly suggested that we might meet, Freddy, but I am open to reasonable suggestions. And I know another (non-member) who might be willing too. I'm tall, so others might well need to wear heels if we are truly to meet 'face-to-face'. But not if dressed thus:

1. Do you mean 'over trousers'? 2. Maybe not to Tesco's - but fine for Aldi (or maybe Waitrose if you want to go down-market)!

Yes, Freddy - it is either remaining hairline or savings that is in inverse proportion to DIY experience amassed. The Hep2O flexis are a good idea in your situation. As you say, flow might improve with reversal of feeds - but won't C and H then be reversed at tap levers and maybe confusing to occupant? The box spanners are very helpful - I wouldn't be without mine when lying on my back under a sink! (I have Monument set bought years ago - a little cheaper currently at TS than yours and seemingly identical.) The fixing stud (and maybe nut) usually brass, so should not corrode and stick; if it shears (unlikely) no harm done. I expect the condemned taps are solid brass and probably worth a couple of quid in scrap. I wouldn't worry about the canted pipe - it does its job, cant or not, and is out of sight. But of course you KNOW it is there!

Are high heels an advantage when riding a bike, much as they are when riding a horse or (according to some) a motorbike? I guess not with the racing bikes that have fancy pedals and need special shoes, but I'm thinking mainly of the traditional 'pushbike'.)

I think your wife has been speaking to mine, Freddy - exactly the same cutting and totally exaggerated remarks have been heard regularly here! (But more than one recent household project has benefitted, physically and financially, from the ready availability of items squirelled away for a couple of eons, just in case ...)

I do rather agree with your sentiments on male wearing of women's boots (or shoes) Shyheels. Men are denied what are often unexceptional footwear styles simply because they are mainly or simply traditionally worn by women - e.g. tall boots, pointed toes, heels higher or slimmer than (say) a 2.5" cuban, strappy sandals. All of these styles can look good when worn by a man (with the right outfit, and in the right situation) but we are looked at askance if we venture out in anything that is at all unconventional - even if it is just the colour of the leather. The cowboy boot in its stylised form - even though not really a true working boot - with a high tapered heel, pointed toe and often a high decorated shaft is about as daring as most men in the UK can get without risking public ridicule, and even that is pushing it outside the line-dancing class or fancy-dress party. I do wear these 'cowgirls' (2.75" heel) under normal length jeans without any issues, but would expect some reaction if the shaft was fully exposed: Do you wear your OTK suede boots with their 3" heels openly in public, over jeans etc? If so, what reaction have you had?

I dshould like to see a pic of your boots, Shyheels; they sound great (even if costly). I tend to agree with Freddy about shoe 'collections' (although I do tend to amass all sorts of other stuff - or 'clutter' as it is sometimes misnamed). A couple of pairs of comfortable and satisfying boots or shoes would do me too - but the problem is that (unless one is very lucky) it takes a number of attempts to find the near-perfect pair, so an unwittingly growing collection is likely. Yes, the unwanted ones can be disposed of ... one day soon.

Even more of a bugger's muddle all round, ain't it, Freddy? Nice photos though. I suspect the 'canted' pipe is thus to allow the formed bend; even if the vertical pipe was shortened by a good inch there would still need to be a slope up. If the vertical pipe above the check valve goes to a tap, I agree that the check valve is not doing its job properly. As you surmise, check valve (doubles now, I think - yours may not be) are there to stop backflow or siphoning of dirty water. This does not often happen but may arise (with unpleasant results) if a hose connected to a tap or shower can trail into bathwater or an outdoor puddle (with nasty garden chemicals in it?) - with the risk of drinking water being contaminated at another tap. In your case, it would be simpler to leave the checkvalve alone and fit a new outside bibtap incorporating an integral double check valve, e.g. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p54792?table=no (I have a feeling that these taps are no longer accepted by some water authorities, who insist on an 'in line' double check valve instead. However, they are quite effective - and bye-law inspectors are rarely if ever found snooping about these days.) Washing machines etc invariably have an integral check valve so do not need another in the external feed. But WM valves with an integral valve are available for them wot likes 'belt and braces': http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p96215?table=no Rather than fitting flexi tails and isol valves to the new taps (unless limited room for manipulation makes that essential), one dodge is to use a 15mm-0.5" flexi with the compression end fitted to the (shortened) copper tap tail and the female threaded end fitted direct to the isol valve in place of its union nut. Or do it in reverse, with valve upstream of flexi., which may well allow flexi to poke through back panel, and rest of supply pipe is therefore hiddden away. Either is neat and saves another joint and bit of pipe. And, if water pressure is a problem, use full bore flexis and valves if possible; it can make a difference. Your NVQ in domestic installation work draws ever nearer ...!

An absolutely typical 'out-of-sight-behind-the-units-and-forget-it' plumbing run, Freddy! However, I have some sympathy with matey who added the top stopcock. The bottom one appears to be for screwed galvanised pipe and its removal might have threatened the integrity of the incoming pipe, which would then be a complete b*****r to dig out and replace. And I've met a situation where such an original cock (working or not) was so inaccessible that it was better to put another further on in a reachable position. I wonder what that green/yellow wire is bonding (if indeed it is connected)? If that is the incoming main below the stopcock, then the stopcock(s) should be 'bridged' by a wire connected to the pipes using two visible earthing clips, to preserve continuity if the stopcock(s) are removed. And there ought to be a draincock just above the (upper) stopcock to allow the pipe above to be emptied. You have the chance to tidy all this up ... You say the tap incomers were isolated using washing machine valves. That sounds weird, especially as the WM connections are 0.75" male - so what was attached to them to run on to tap?

As to item 4, I bought click-clack wastes here a couple of years ago; no problems yet (in hard water areas): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-1-4-32-slotted-clicker-POP-UP-WASTE-suitable-for-basin-with-overflow-W3-/251046597330?hash=item3a738b12d2 The seller has the same item on auction if you want a potentially cheaper punt. But I doubt there is much difference between these and others on eBay at £5 or often less; worth a look in case you have a more preferred type. Re item 2, Screwfix has a stainless band: http://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-builders-band-stainless-steel-20mm-x-9-6m/59863 Must go now - Rebuilding pillars at bottom of steps outside front entrance; good weather for mortar/rendering work etc.

Sorry about the missing 'r' in 'shrink', Freddy - I was merely copying your excellent example in 'wok/work' elsewhere. We had better now each get our 'rs' into gear beforte continuing! (And I have little knowledge of Kentish slang - or that of men of Kent - as I am a Middlesex boy originally, cock.) MJ does all sorts of boots to order, often with 4" or higher heels. Suggest you look at: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/cowboybootsusa/Made-to-Order-boots-/_i.html?_fsub=1008848017 and http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Made-To-Order-Ankle-boots-choose-your-style-heel-height-shape-gallery-inside-/261597052770 Miguel has some ex-stock too. You can find many other styles he has made thru Google, e.g. at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/custom-boots/ I found him pleasant and helpful to deal with (his English is good) and the boots took less time to make and deliver than I was expecting, even allowing for the small alteration he made at my request before finishing them.

Interesting thoughts about leg length and shoe size, Freddy. I think it quite logical that feet are (or normally are) in proportion to build and height, but not so sure that putting on weight will necessarily result in 'fatter' feet, aside from some possible temporary bloating through water retention. Foot size (and height) do tend to shink a little with age, but I guess that foot size does not effectively reduce because stiffness, bunions and other ailments will tend to make feet less flexible and therefore more needful of a comfy/roomy shoe (as most wives, at least, demonstrate). I think you have forgotten that I do have a pair of custom-made 'Miguel Jones' boots from Mexico - pictures posted previously. They cost about £110 shipped and fit very well. They are comfortable enough to wear (given the 5" heel) but my slightly bow-legged gait does not help. Under longish bootcut trousers they are quite discreet (although the long pointed toes are very apparent - which doesn't bother me) but they really deserve to be shown-off under normal length fairly narrow straight jeans - which would doubtless frighten any foreign woman, inquisitive child or horse within spotting range. One day, I might have the courage ... Last Thursday, whilst in another town, I saw a women walking around whose look was one I wish men could aspire to with impunity. She was tall and of medium build (which meant she was of an overall size/outline comparable to many mid-sized men) and wearing a longish black jacket, wide-legged trousers and fully-visible black suede ankle boots with a straight heel about 4" high. She looked very smart-casual and comfortable and I really wished I could have been 'in her body'. The boots were the most obviously feminine thing she wore but seemed to me to be eminently suitable for a man as part of a comparable overall look - if only the (perceived) barrier to male heel wearing did not exist. And I already have rather similar boots:

Progress then, Freddy - even if hampered by various physical constraints and other buggers' bodges. A few thoughts: 1. If bath waste might need temporary removal, why not join with compression fittings until you finalise it, then use solvent-weld fittings? (Compression will fit all pipes - the special push-fit bend you ordered (source/detail?) may well not fit SW pipe.) 2. 'Builders band' or similar perforated metal strip is handy for making things like pipe straps if they will not be on show: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p60768?table=no Lots of other uses too! (I have some in aluminium which is very good.) 3. Could not your 15mm copper pipe run behind the soil pipe (with a little bit of wall gouged out)? That would obviate making a full crossover as a slight set would suffice. 4. The basin waste opened by a rod is a 'pop-up waste', as distinct from a 'click-clack' opened by finger pressure above (although the latter are sometimes also called pop-up). I agree that the former can give trouble. I have bought some very good click-clacks on eBay for around a fiver and had no trouble with them; no need to spend anything like £28. Indeed, the nicely machined and plated brass is quite a joy to behold (as is a lot of plumbers' brassware: maybe there should be a fetish website for it!). Good luck with the fiddly rod extension. 5. Not sure if you are referring to the WC pan connector or the pipe into which it fits - presumably the former. If you really needed a long-neck, there must be something unusual about the pan outlet height or (more likely) the depth/position of the outlet pipe into which it fits, which would normally be flush with the floor or just below it. As to 'No plumber I know (2 plus 3 heating engineers) have "got time" for the wok I want done', I hope you can take time out to enjoy that Chinese meal you thoroughly deserve! (Best to keep off curry too for the moment.)

It might pay you to use the 'Park and Ride' at Withdean Stadium (just off A23 approach). You can Google details. Even on a Sunday, parking restrictions/costs abound in the city centre and you might still find it difficult to get free parking further out that is still within walking distance.

I thought I would recognise the onset of autumnal weather (drizzling here today) by wearing a pair of these boots for a brief shopping foray into town, a round trip of about 1.6 miles: These boots (from Evans, size supposedly 11UK wide) have always been a bit tight for length but are wearable and look OK under bootcut jeans which cover about half the 3.5" heel. I can't say, however, that the trip was an unmitigated pleasure and I was glad to get home again and remove them. I think my feet have swollen a little over the alleged summer, and also the boot heels have a tendency to kick inwards a little, which doesn't improve my gait. I noticed too as I monitored my progress whilst passing plate-glass windows (who doesn't do this?) that my right boot seemed to be less concealed than the left. It was probably my gait but it is possible that I have one leg a little longer than the other, but with trouser legs of same length, which creates this 'revelation'. I may well have been sussed, especially if walking a little awkwardly, but I really don't care. Whether the expedition was worthwhile given the discomfort is another matter. (sorry if the pic is too intrusive - not sure how to make it a little smaller)