Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/07/2016 in all areas

  1. I think we have both reached a playful conclusion here. I tend to use PVA (or my preferred, but more expensive SBR) to do one of two things: Homogenise a surface to be rendered of filled where there might be different degrees of suction (that might otherwise lead to deformation due to mixed 'induced' stresses on the drying medium leading to cracking). Or where adhesion might be low, which might be a previously painted or treated surface. My understanding of plaster or plasterboard, is that too much suction could be a problem, meaning water is drawn from filler (whatever that might be) and can lead to a dry bond that might subsequently fail. In that instance, PVA would be used to slow down the drying of the medium, helping to prevent separation through premature drying. That said, dryliners do not treat plasterboard prior to taping and filling joints. Nor is there any reference anywhere, to products like Easi-Fill separating from completely untreated plasterboard. My conclusion then, is that any prior preparation to is a 'nice to have' rather than 'need to have'. Where you have used PVA on bare/cut boards, I have agreed the use of PVA in almost every circumstance. However, I have recently had experience of a bathroom I refurbished (which included some ceiling repairs) where I actually wiped dripping water off the repaired ceiling after a tenant had used the shower in the room. So wet was the ceiling, I had to wring out a dish-cloth twice to get the bulk of the water off the newly painted ceiling. Some weeks later, that paint has started to peel, (it wasn't water-proof paint) exposing the plasterwork. Where i live, we have a history of leaking pipes (pictures shown previously) and the repair I've made is directly under a 50 gallon water tank. With this recent experience, and the history of my own home, the location of the repair, I have 3 good reasons to use something that won't liven up if water is introduced to it, no matter how unlikely that might be in the normal course of events. My anticipation (ref above) is to repair for the extreme 'course of events' because that would be typical of my experience. Especially here. Easi-Fill is a useful product for those small/thin repairs, where plastering skim might otherwise be ideal, but where the DIY'er has little or no plastering skills (which would include me.) It's a very 'sticky' medium, and can't be polished like a finish coat of plaster because it literally 'sticks' to everything it touches. As I indicate, adhesion problems are unknown. It's softer than plaster, and more resilient to cracking. In fact it's more like the old lime render, in that untreated it will absorb moisture and maintain some flexibility. Better yet, it's a fine powder product that rubs down easily. Dust can and is a problem, so getting the level as close to correct is desirable, though not as critical as with plaster. Because it accepts moisture and will liven up, it's possible to 'wet sand' with a sponge. It's also easy to re-coat, though suction (gripping) is a problem is you are not quick. I use other fillers for anything deeper than 5mm, but for shallow repairs, this stuff is great. Dries quickly too.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...