FastFreddy2

Ahhh, Brighton. The promenade. The cobbled streets ..... Yes, I know the place. I'm tempted to suggest it would be my home of choice, but for the prohibitive price of property.

If you have worn those shoes enough so the heel-tips need replacing, please, get some new tips. They are inexpensive, and will save your shoes. I recommend >> this << supplier. Very helpful. A new metal tip is louder than a worn ferrule, in my experience. I have several pairs of new tips in my 'spares' box. If any are suitable, you can have some for the price of the postage? I have some metal ones too, but they are for a fairly thin heel. Let me know.

I have a 'self portrait' as my phone desktop image.... It's caught the eye of one or two, and got a flattering remark from one. (I didn't reveal anything, they just assumed it was from the internet.) But no fan club .... The pictures were where they should have been. I'll post them as soon as I can find the time to edit them.

Well unless your head sits on your knees, I'm not expecting to see your face. I understand your modesty, and your need for privacy .... But unless you've got enough legs to wear 2 pairs of leggings at the same time, (which would likely make you unique), I think your anonymity should be okay? Maybe give it some more thought when your waistline is 'match-fit'? P.S. Which reminds me, I wonder where the photo's are of me wearing the 'medium' Zara PU trousers? ......

You are very welcome. Of course, A PICTURE is worth a thousand words ....

I have been kept busy during the last couple of weeks, carrying out replacement of hot water piping, repairing the old (but serviceable) though soon to be redundant kitchen units, and repairing floorboards ready for their (hopefully) permanent re-seating. Details to follow.

The idea of storing shoes in this way seems attractive, but given how many pairs on show in the picture above have red soles (Loubies), I suspect this showcase has another purpose other than making a shoe choice easy. I am beginning to understand I have two classes of shoe/boot ownership. The ones I wear, which might be as few as 5 pairs of boots, and then the others. I discount any I will be selling on, as these now 'enthusiastic but regretful purchases' that hindsight suggests I might have been better to avoid. This includes boots I might have paid upto £120 for (fired by enthusiasm for the style) only to find they are all but unwearable in the circumstance I would want to use them. The second group then, are the style keepers. These might be shoes or boots I think are keep-able (at the moment at least) because of their atheistic appeal. Nearly all the court shoes I have for example, fall into this group, barring one pair that I hope/expect to wear out at some stage. Certainly my KG Cilla fall into this group. The stupidly high Forever 21 sandals with small platform (I struggle to walk in) are included, as are a pair of black patent courts from Office with a heel as high as the Cilla at 5¼ inches. A showcase for these might be nice, but not in an area where visitors would feel like they had walked into a 'den of iniquity', or anything like it. So possibly a bedroom, or somewhere that wasn't likely to see anyone other myself and Mrs Freddy (or even just myself).

Very 'showy', but I like them. I'm perhaps realising I can't do platforms myself, but the rise on that shoe and the styling, are both alluring.

Winter has been very long this season, given it started so early in 2015 (Or 2014 given we saw so little sun last year.) I too could do with losing a little off my waistline. I'm hoping to get some time on my bike, which will help, as will 'breaking my back' down at the allotment.

Not that keen on spangly stuff myself, but I'm loving the shoes. Any details?

First time in stiletto's outside? I thought you had wandered about in this heel style before, (5" sandals) but maybe not somewhere so public? Wait until you get some with steel heel-tips ... THEN you'll know what heel noise is all about. Maybe the sound of the heel is why I get noticed more than you have in the past? In that case, having a female with you might be good camouflage as people hearing a heel and seeing a women (normal), are less surprised than hearing a heel and seeing a man (less normal). I could certainly see how wearing a thin heeled shoe or boot in a quiet street, could make you feel self-concious. I have worn heels, twice, in a large town not a million miles from you. I might have been spotted in the mall there (which is far and away my preferred venue) but I don't recall any adverse reactions. Malls are busy/noisy places, even during daylight hours. My second trip to the area had me arriving at dusk, and leaving during the late evening, with no visit to the mall. Again, uneventful. Food for thought?

There, backwardly corrected to suit a quotation taken out of context from the rest of the statement, which was throughout the discussion concerning repairs to plasterboard and render, that pretty much excluded new-build situations through absence. I was in essence, agreeing your regime not promoting mine. In the light of my correction, you will find it fully ties in with everything I have said. Next time I will try to ensure every dot is joined, to help anyone missing a dot, or not joining it with the others, to understand its presence. There is a difference between seeking clarity on a point of ambiguity, and trawling for contradictions that don't exist. I will not be responding or acknowledging any further comments on this. It's become unnecessarily destructive.

Will this work? Fourth time of trying ...... Maison Freddy got another visit from the 'leak' fairly yesterday morning. The 'cancerous' copper 22mm pipe that carries hot water around the gaff, let go again. Over the past couple of years I have developed a technique for resolving these leaks, and have the procedure down to about 15 minutes. One problem wasn't so easy to solve and necessitated taking up half the bathroom floor. (I have mentioned this event, and promised pictures I've yet to add.) Yesterdays problem was in a similar league, since it was behind a kitchen unit and tucked into a wall. Once I realised the source, I knew I wasn't going to have a great day. Immediate response (as usual), turn off the water, and drain the water tank(s) as required. "As required" means until water stops flowing. Although I didn't know this yesterday, our hot water tank won't empty unless water is pushed out of it, or drained directly (more on that later). While the tank(s) are emptying, my job is to move and dry -if needed- anything struck by falling water, and to put a container under any drips. My well rehearsed procedure meant the water damage was small. My ears are 'tuned' to "drip drip drip" like most mothers/parents are tuned to the wail of their new born when unhappy. This leak was the final straw, in an economy jumbo pack B.O.G.O.F. lifetime deal, that I had hoped would be terminated with the addition of a new boiler that would make all this 'cancerous' copper pipe redundant/removed. Unfortunately I allowed myself to get involved in another project that kept me busy for too long, and winter isn't a good time to change every rad in the house, and then a boiler. So, time ran out for me, and now the 'cancerous' pipework. It took until 4am to access everything, restore some of a bedroom floor, and install a repair regime that removed large sections of 22mm pipe with more efficient 15mm copper with no holes. Effectively working through the night, with the objective of Mrs Freddy able to shower in the morning. But filling up both tanks again, and warming up the hot tank meant there wasn't enough time left for that to happen since she is in the bathroom at 5am. The cold water tank filled quickly, and quicker than I imagined given the hot water tank downstream.... One of the idiosyncrasies of this house (and its plumbing system) is that any emptying of the hot water system, needs a mains water back-flush to remove an airlock. Once I had worked out how to do this, we again had running water from the hot taps in the bathroom. Better, there was warm water out of the hot taps! I had not realised, though it was very desirable from the metered consumption point of view, the hot tank hadn't emptied. In fact the heated water had stayed heated too. Yay! Mrs Freddy got her 5am shower after all. Not that this put her in a better mood than she was in the previous evening. She is thinking we should live somewhere else, while the plumbing here (and residual building work - including new kitchen) is concluded....

At the time (so putting it into context) we were talking about 'unfinished/damaged/reshaped' board edges if I remember? Otherwise, priming/sealing finished boards is completely unnecessary. Your text from post #7556 My response, was that I used (in the bathroom) thinned acrylic paint in lieu. (We are quite literally, going around in circles now.) I went on to say Easi-Fill (or something like it - Lafarge make a similar product but is harder to source) negates the need for 'priming/sealing' because it's so sticky..... Followed by, the comment you quoted ... Mindful Maison Freddy is practically falling down around my ears (in some places) I feel SBR is justified. The additional strength it provides is my insurance policy against doing 'the job' twice. I recommend it for difficult/harsh jobs only. Otherwise (I remind you) I agree PVA is perfectly suitable in almost every other circumstance, if not every other circumstance. My case is also rested.

While Forums are very useful, 'old wives tales' abound. I haven't had much contact with plasterers, nor tilers, but those I know do as I suggest, 'prime' (they call it). I've even had the misfortune to have to clear up residue from a skim+coving job where PVA was used excessively. Since PVA is an adhesive, I can't imagine where it's use on a dry substrate would be to the detriment of any water based medium applied whatever that might be - with the obvious exception of paint. I have myself applied coats of a waterproofing paint to the substrate in my bathroom where tiles were to be placed. A more difficult surface to adhere to seems unlikely, so I don't see how PVA could be worse. As for (continued) references to plasterboard, I haven't included this anywhere, and have stated it doesn't need any sealing when the medium designed for it; ie Easi-Fill, is used. An example of 'old wives tales' would be the suggestion by plasterers, to use a weak mix of PVA to 'prime' new (dry) plaster before painting. Absolutely not.... In fact modern (post 2010) emulsions aren't much use for the legendary 'mist' coat either. In the 'old days', dry emulsion was permanent, not any longer. Dulux tell me after 3 weeks it should be 'set' as to be permanent, again, not so. Modern emulsions can be 'livened' up with water, even years after application. Currently I 'prime' bare plaster with a weak mix of acrylic primer, that both seals and fixes the surface ready for coats of emulsion.

As you can see, contributions (yours possibly) get responses.

PM sent.

I would be surprised if a plasterer or tiler did not 'prime' a bare wall with PVA before doing either. As before, the PVA does two things: 1: It makes the suction levels of different substrates more uniform, and makes sure porous ones don't dry out the applied medium prematurely. 2: As the PVA is moistened by the application of a wet medium, it becomes 'live' again and helps bond the new medium (plaster/tile adhesive) to the substrate (brick/cement). SBR wouldn't be completely appropriate in most cases, because it's more of a waterproofing agent (admixture) and strengthener. There are cheaper waterproofing admixtures too. I have used SBR in various rendering/mortar repairs because previous failure indicates a need for greater strength. I have used it around drainage repairs and a man-hole replacement project. Despite the expense of it, I love the stuff. All the above. Originally I spent over a month in the bathroom, removing every last particle of mould, left by the previous tenants. If I have a photo, I will include it later. Every single inch of silicon had mould in it. Imagine trying to remove that .... I nearly gave up on the job.... The upper edge of every tile in the room, had mould on it. 3 different brands of mould cleaner couldn't get it out of the ceiling, and two coats of stain-blocker didn't completely hide the (dead mould) staining. The room hadn't been cleaned for 10 months. The shower cubicle stood on a raised plinth so a fairly deep trap could be installed. The tallest new tenant was over 6ft. He could barely get himself under the shower head. It wasn't long before my good work was being unravelled. I really could fill several pages here of the horrors, now thankfully, a problem in the past. (I hope.)

I have in PU (from £10), almond shaped toe. Marked UK7 but come up big. I fit them and I'm an 8 too. I have a pair in an 8 that have been worn once (with socks) to Westfield, so almost no sign of wear. At least a 4½ heel. (Picture is of the UK8's.) I've exactly the same style in leather, again new and made by ALDO in UK8. These would be £40. A different style, not such a slim heel and close to 5 inches: New, leather, from ALDO again, generous UK8 with discreet toe shape, £30. Post to be added, at around £3 or £4 if a signature is required. Bit more for next day (1st class) carriage. Thursday isn't a problem. All come with original boxes.

I have loads. New, in PU, suede or leather. Your size too. Can I sell you a pair.

I think we have both reached a playful conclusion here. I tend to use PVA (or my preferred, but more expensive SBR) to do one of two things: Homogenise a surface to be rendered of filled where there might be different degrees of suction (that might otherwise lead to deformation due to mixed 'induced' stresses on the drying medium leading to cracking). Or where adhesion might be low, which might be a previously painted or treated surface. My understanding of plaster or plasterboard, is that too much suction could be a problem, meaning water is drawn from filler (whatever that might be) and can lead to a dry bond that might subsequently fail. In that instance, PVA would be used to slow down the drying of the medium, helping to prevent separation through premature drying. That said, dryliners do not treat plasterboard prior to taping and filling joints. Nor is there any reference anywhere, to products like Easi-Fill separating from completely untreated plasterboard. My conclusion then, is that any prior preparation to is a 'nice to have' rather than 'need to have'. Where you have used PVA on bare/cut boards, I have agreed the use of PVA in almost every circumstance. However, I have recently had experience of a bathroom I refurbished (which included some ceiling repairs) where I actually wiped dripping water off the repaired ceiling after a tenant had used the shower in the room. So wet was the ceiling, I had to wring out a dish-cloth twice to get the bulk of the water off the newly painted ceiling. Some weeks later, that paint has started to peel, (it wasn't water-proof paint) exposing the plasterwork. Where i live, we have a history of leaking pipes (pictures shown previously) and the repair I've made is directly under a 50 gallon water tank. With this recent experience, and the history of my own home, the location of the repair, I have 3 good reasons to use something that won't liven up if water is introduced to it, no matter how unlikely that might be in the normal course of events. My anticipation (ref above) is to repair for the extreme 'course of events' because that would be typical of my experience. Especially here. Easi-Fill is a useful product for those small/thin repairs, where plastering skim might otherwise be ideal, but where the DIY'er has little or no plastering skills (which would include me.) It's a very 'sticky' medium, and can't be polished like a finish coat of plaster because it literally 'sticks' to everything it touches. As I indicate, adhesion problems are unknown. It's softer than plaster, and more resilient to cracking. In fact it's more like the old lime render, in that untreated it will absorb moisture and maintain some flexibility. Better yet, it's a fine powder product that rubs down easily. Dust can and is a problem, so getting the level as close to correct is desirable, though not as critical as with plaster. Because it accepts moisture and will liven up, it's possible to 'wet sand' with a sponge. It's also easy to re-coat, though suction (gripping) is a problem is you are not quick. I use other fillers for anything deeper than 5mm, but for shallow repairs, this stuff is great. Dries quickly too.

Well okay, but ..... One of us is righter ... <<=== Humour alert! When the time comes, all the rockwool/fibreglass currently residing in the loft will be removed. Every last fibre. It will be replaced with loose treated recycled paper, probably topped (if necessary) with some well know thermal blanket, the name of which I don't recall. It is sold encased in a silver plastic? The object of the change, is to have a medium that doesn't irritate skin or lungs. And doesn't cover any tradesmen (or me) in filth when a visit is made. I would have the loft as 'muck-free' as possible. Ideally it would for the most part be boarded out too, but that is a long way off at the moment. We don't need to agree techniques on everything. PVA is a water based glue that can be livened up if it becomes moist, unlike SBR which I tend to use more often anyway. Since I have a better solution to hand, why wouldn't I use the better solution? The thinned primer is acrylic based. I don't need the addition of PVA (or SBR) which is often used for additional bond, and for reducing excessive suction in porous surfaces. Easi-Fill is sticky enough, as is the jointing tape. I'm happy to use Trading Standards and the courts (if necessary.) My experience with banks in matters such as these, has not been great. Thank you for your good wishes.

I will send a link via PM. I'm fully aware you would not be bidding, but I do not want to draw attention to these items, ESPECIALLY if I eventually make a purchase. If the seller does read these pages ....

There are post numbers, but you have to click on the "Posted" remark on the upper lefthand side of the comment, adjacent to the posters name. The post number, along with the complete URL of the post is revealed. Not ideal. As you will doubtless now understand, the ply is indeed screwed down (to the plasterboard) from the bathroom. The screws are effectively drawing the loose ply down onto the top of the plasterboard. As I am familiar with the process - as now are you - perhaps the potential for ambiguity has gone, though I had not recognised the opportunity for any. No, they are wood screws. I drill through the plasterboard with no screw-threads attempting to hold the PB at all. The screws grip into the ply, with the heads of the screws pinching the two media together. I want a flush finish above the ply. Electrical cables cross this area, despite the 50 gallon water tank being there. I do not want to present the opportunity for me or anyone else, to create an electrical short by pushing live cabling onto a piercing hazard. MDF doesn't perform well if wetted. Mindful of the water tank, it's location (loft) MDF was seen as a liability. There are also hazards from cutting dust. It's versatile stuff, but the ply has the potential for strength and maintaining its form if dampened. The butted joins were not tapered, but were already recessed into 3-4mm of finishing plaster. I had hoped to 'top-up' the recess with Easi-Fill, and paint over, but the ceiling wasn't skimmed flat anyway. I did mention earlier, that one board edge appeared to protrude, but on sanding I found it was the skim coat that was 'high'. (Or was actually lower into the room than the rest of the ceiling.) Where a hole remains for the old extractor, the plasterboard has dropped 3-4mm due to 40 years of weight on unsupported PB. Where the halogen lamp was fitted (also mentioned previously) the heat has curled the PB slightly upward into the loft by a couple of mm. In some ways, replacing the boards completely would have been a sensible/quick solution, but not in the middle of our winter, with Mrs Freddy needing a warm area to wash/shower every day. (Twice a day.) Sealing the plasterboard is a good idea, and anywhere else I would use PVA too. However, PVA can be livened up if dampened, and in a bathroom that would undesirable. I used a thinned priming paint (not written up) which helped 'fix' the paper surface of the board, and gave a uniform surface to the whole contact area for the self-adhesive mesh tape and subsequent skim. The primer I favour acts like SBR in that when dry, no amount of water livens it up again. As you might rightly guess, cash removes the opportunity for an audit trail. I don't need one. Cash purchases also mean anyone can do returns. I was about to write that I have never needed the Consumer Credit Act, but realised but for a single instance, that would be true. Last year I bought a large double-glazed panel made to my specifications. Part of the agreed 'condition of supply' was that I be provided with all fixing, including those for the glazing panels. I was not. I now know the solution, but the panel is not fitted. The glazing unit fits into the recess for it, but the uPVC frame is not square. Possibly if the unit had been installed by someone else, I might not be aware of it, but I am aware of it. At the moment, I am looking to pursue a case based on Trading Standards legislation, in that it's not 'fit for purpose'. In this single instance, I would have had a better time if we had bought on a credit card. The unit cost £400 and has been a major draw-back to progress. Currently, I am unsure what course of action to take. I have not dwelt on it, because I know the pursuit of a refund will be both time and energy consuming. During winter, I have other priorities. As spring approaches, I will have to chase this problem up.

While this thread normally pre-warns of a meeting opportunity, this is more a 'supplement' to recent experience. Almost literally 'popped' into Brent Cross late today (Saturday). Was there for about 2 hours, with around 45 minutes of travelling on either side of that. Wore my shoe-boots as per my current avatar, with 5" heels. My last visit to Brent Cross had me in my favoured pointed toe M+S 'cowboy' style ankle boots that seem to get me more attention than I would prefer. Walking in the slightly high heel was slower, not least because I have to concentrate on minimising my hip swaying in a 5" heel. It will sound a little paradoxical, but these high heels really are a pleasure to put on my feet. The size is just about perfect, and the rise is a challenge I can cope with for most 'outings'. My left ankle (damaged in a fall when I was a child) usually weakens first, and I find it gives me trouble landing my left heel squarely. Other than that, I might be tempted to wear these shoes for an extended period some time... So, today I was walking along the upper floor.... I'd been spotted once by a woman as I was going into John Lewis while she was leaving, and I'd then sat for a while inside the store, drinking a cup of coffee. On leaving, I again walked along the upper floor. Possibly four paces (six wearing these heels) from a shop entrance, a plain looking women of ethnic background, left the shop with such speed she nearly walked into me. Before we passed each other, I doubt 1.5 seconds passed. In that time she looked at my face, looked at my shoes, then took a second look at my face. I was shocked/impressed with the speed of her cognitive ability! She had immediately understood I wasn't wearing mens shoes, just from my gait. (That's "hip swing" to you and me. ) As I walked further along the mall, I put a little more work into who walked straight past, and who (possibly) didn't. What I noticed was my fellow Brit's tended to notice nothing at all, either by accident or design. If anyone gave me a second/sideways look, it was someone with a non-European appearance. Something of a non-scientific/small sample research project, but it easily backed up my long held belief some groups are more 'switched on' to boundary pushing, than others. That woman though .... so fast!